David B. Katague is an online memoirist and cultural essayist whose writing has appeared on HubPages

Saturday, August 22, 2026

THE GASTRONOMIC CAPITAL OF THE PHILIPPINES-ILOILO

THE GASTRONOMIC CAPITAL OF THE PHILIPPINES-From My FaceBook Page Today

Iloilo’s identity can be tasted. Iloilo is My Birth Place and Spent 26 years of My Life.
It can be found in the depth of a bowl of La Paz Batchoy, the delicate character of Pancit Molo, the richness of Kansi, the warmth of KBL, and the unmistakable flavor of Chicken Inasal. But Iloilo’s gastronomy is far greater than a collection of celebrated dishes. It is a living expression of place, history, heritage, hospitality, livelihood, creativity, and community—a culinary culture shaped by generations and continually renewed by the people who keep it alive.
Rooted in the land and the sea, Iloilo’s food culture has been built by farmers and fisherfolk, cooks and bakers, vendors and food artisans, chefs and entrepreneurs, families and communities. Its farms, fishing grounds, public markets, kitchens, bakeries, restaurants, fiestas, roadside stalls, and dining tables form an interconnected culinary landscape in which food is not merely produced and consumed, but remembered, shared, taught, adapted, and passed from one generation to the next.
Its most recognizable dishes are important ambassadors of this heritage, but they are only the visible surface of a much deeper culinary tradition.
Beyond the famous names are the everyday foods that define Ilonggo life: home-cooked meals, native delicacies, freshly baked breads, seafood, vegetables, preserved foods, seasonal ingredients, family specialties, merienda, fiesta dishes, and recipes whose greatest value may be known only within the homes and communities where they have been prepared for generations.
This is where the true character of Iloilo’s gastronomy lives.
It lives in the kitchen where a family recipe is prepared from memory. It lives in the market where local ingredients change hands from producer to vendor to household. It lives in the bakery where familiar breads carry the memory of another generation. It lives in the fishing community whose daily catch reaches the dining table. It lives in the restaurant where an old recipe is carefully preserved—or thoughtfully reinterpreted for a new generation.
Iloilo’s cuisine is also a story of exchange.
For centuries, trade, migration, and cultural encounters brought new ingredients, techniques, influences, and ideas into the region. Yet Ilonggo cuisine did not simply copy what arrived. It absorbed, adapted, localized, and transformed those influences through its own ingredients, tastes, techniques, sensibilities, and traditions. What emerged was not a cuisine defined by imitation, but one shaped by encounter and made distinctly its own.
That ability to evolve without losing its roots is one of the defining strengths of Iloilo’s culinary identity.
Its food heritage survives not because it has been placed behind glass, but because it continues to be lived.
Families continue to cook. Bakers continue to bake. Vendors continue to sell. Farmers continue to cultivate. Fisherfolk continue to bring food from the sea. Restaurants continue to serve. Chefs continue to experiment. Communities continue to celebrate. And generations continue to gather around the table.
Food survives because people continue to practice it.
This makes Iloilo’s public markets far more than places of commerce. They are living repositories of culinary knowledge and vital links within the local food system, connecting farmers, fisherfolk, producers, vendors, cooks, restaurants, and households. They reveal the ingredients behind Iloilo’s cuisine and, just as importantly, the people whose labor sustains it.
Its heritage bakeries preserve not only recipes, but memory. Its traditional eateries keep familiar flavors within reach. Its food entrepreneurs create livelihoods from local culinary traditions. Its contemporary restaurants demonstrate that heritage and innovation do not have to stand in opposition.
Tradition can evolve without disappearing.
In 2023, this living culinary culture gained international recognition when Iloilo City became a member of the UNESCO Creative Cities Network as a Creative City of Gastronomy. The designation did not create Iloilo’s gastronomic identity. It recognized and amplified a food culture that had already been cultivated, practiced, and passed down for generations.
But recognition is not an endpoint. It carries responsibility.
To call Iloilo a gastronomic capital is to accept the responsibility of protecting the culture that makes such a declaration meaningful. That means documenting recipes, traditions, techniques, and food stories; supporting heritage establishments and food artisans; valuing local ingredients; strengthening farmers and fisherfolk; sustaining traditional knowledge; encouraging responsible culinary innovation; and ensuring that the benefits of gastronomic development reach the communities that have carried this heritage forward.
The future of Iloilo’s gastronomy therefore cannot be separated from the future of its entire food ecosystem.
From farm and sea to market, kitchen, restaurant, and table, gastronomy can connect agriculture, fisheries, tourism, culture, entrepreneurship, education, and local economic development. It can create opportunities for food producers and young culinary professionals while giving new generations reasons to understand, value, and carry forward the traditions that define their home.
This is why food offers one of the most meaningful ways to discover Iloilo.
A bowl of batchoy can lead to La Paz and to the history surrounding one of the Philippines’ most beloved noodle soups. Pancit Molo can open a window into the heritage of Molo. A heritage bakery can reveal generations of memory through something as simple as bread. A public market can introduce the people, ingredients, and livelihoods behind the dishes. A traditional eatery can preserve a flavor that might otherwise disappear. A contemporary restaurant can demonstrate how an old culinary language can speak to a new generation.
Every dish can become an entry point into the story of a place.
And that is why calling Iloilo the Gastronomic Capital of the Philippines should mean far more than a tourism slogan, a ranking, or a claim of culinary superiority.
It should be understood as a declaration of identity—and a commitment to sustain that identity.
Iloilo’s gastronomic strength does not rest on a single dish, a famous restaurant, a celebrated chef, or a collection of culinary awards. It rests on an entire community of people who grow its ingredients, harvest its waters, operate its markets, preserve its recipes, bake its breads, prepare its meals, run its food businesses, create new interpretations, welcome visitors, and continue gathering around the table.
Its greatest culinary asset is therefore not simply what Iloilo serves.
It is the culture behind what it serves.
In Iloilo, food is memory and heritage. It is livelihood and enterprise. It is hospitality and celebration. It is creativity and continuity. It is a connection between generations and a bridge between the past and the future.
Every ingredient carries a connection to place.
Every recipe carries a memory. Every kitchen keeps knowledge alive.
Every market sustains a network of people.Every table creates a connection.
And perhaps this is the essence of Ilonggo gastronomy: a culinary culture that remembers without remaining frozen in the past, welcomes without losing its identity, and evolves without surrendering its roots.
Iloilo does not need to invent a culinary identity. It already has one.
It was built in homes and markets, farms and fishing communities, bakeries and kitchens, fiestas and family gatherings. It was carried by generations who cooked, taught, served, shared, adapted, and remembered. It continues today through the people who believe that food is not merely something to be eaten, but something worth preserving and passing on.
The task now is to tell that story with confidence, accuracy, pride, and responsibility and to ensure that the generations who inherit Iloilo’s culinary heritage will have the opportunity to add their own chapters to it.
Because the greatest gastronomic destinations are not defined merely by what they serve.
They are defined by what their food reveals about who they are.
And what Iloilo’s food reveals is a people deeply connected to place, history, tradition, hospitality, creativity, and one another.
This is Iloilo. This is Ilonggo gastronomy.

Lastly, here's a typical recipe of the Pinoy Chicken Adobo

Thursday, August 6, 2026

Why Would A Chef Say No To A Michelin Star?

For more than a century, the Michelin Star has been the highest honor a restaurant can receive. A single star can transform a neighborhood restaurant into an international destination. Two stars signify that the restaurant is worth a detour, while three stars mean it is worth making a special journey.
To many chefs, earning a Michelin Star represents the culmination of years, even decades of relentless hard work, creativity, sacrifice, and perfection. Reservations become scarce, publicity increases, and business often flourishes. It is no surprise that thousands of restaurants around the world aspire to earn one.
Yet, surprisingly, not every chef welcomes this prestigious recognition. Over the years, several world-renowned chefs have asked to have their restaurants removed from the Michelin Guide or have publicly rejected Michelin Stars altogether. At first glance, this seems almost unbelievable. Why would anyone decline one of the most coveted awards in the culinary world?
The answer lies in the enormous pressure that accompanies the stars. A Michelin Star is not a lifetime achievement award. It must be earned and defended every year. Inspectors return anonymously, and chefs know that one disappointing review could result in losing a star. For many, this constant scrutiny creates stress that overshadows the joy of cooking.

One of the most famous examples is French chef Sébastien Bras, whose family restaurant, Le Suquet, had proudly held three Michelin Stars for nearly twenty years. In 2017, Bras asked Michelin to remove his restaurant from the guide.

His explanation was refreshingly honest. He wanted to cook without the constant fear of disappointing anonymous inspectors. He wanted his guests to judge his food on its own merits rather than through the lens of Michelin's expectations. Bras said he wanted to regain his freedom and rediscover the pleasure of cooking.

Another celebrated chef, Marco Pierre White of England, became one of the youngest chefs ever to earn three Michelin Stars. Yet in 1999, he voluntarily gave them up.

White explained that he had become exhausted by the endless pursuit of perfection. He famously remarked that he was being judged by inspectors who, in his opinion, knew less about cooking than he did. Rather than continue living under that pressure, he chose personal happiness over professional accolades.

French chef Marc Veyrat, another culinary legend, publicly criticized Michelin after one of his stars was removed. He challenged the guide's judgment and eventually requested that Michelin no longer review his restaurant. The controversy highlighted the emotional and financial consequences that Michelin ratings can have on even the world's greatest chefs.

These stories reveal an important truth.

The Michelin Guide undoubtedly raises culinary standards and rewards excellence. It encourages innovation, precision, consistency, and extraordinary service. Diners around the world have benefited from its rigorous evaluations.

However, Michelin Stars also come with expectations that can be overwhelming. Maintaining the highest standards often requires long working hours, significant financial investment, expensive ingredients, and constant attention to every detail. Many chefs admit that the pursuit of stars can consume both their professional and personal lives.

Ironically, some chefs have discovered that once they step away from Michelin, they rediscover why they became chefs in the first place—not for awards, but for the simple joy of preparing memorable meals and sharing them with grateful guests.

There is also a valuable lesson here that extends far beyond the kitchen.

Whether in business, science, sports, or the arts, external recognition is gratifying, but it should never become the sole measure of success. Awards are meaningful, yet they are only one way of measuring achievement. Passion, creativity, integrity, personal fulfillment, and the happiness of those we serve may ultimately be far more important.

As someone who has enjoyed dining in Michelin-starred restaurants over the years, including the remarkable Californios in San Francisco, the first Mexican restaurant in America to earn three Michelin Stars, I deeply appreciate the extraordinary craftsmanship these chefs bring to the table. Their dedication elevates dining into an unforgettable experience.

But I also admire those courageous chefs who chose peace of mind over prestige. Their decisions remind us that true success is not always defined by trophies, stars, or rankings. Sometimes, true success is simply waking up each morning excited to do what you love.

Perhaps that is the greatest recipe for a meaningful life.

AI Overview:

Some chefs choose to reject or return Michelin stars to escape the suffocating pressure of rigid inspections, demanding haute cuisine standards, and unsustainable business models. The accolade often brings extreme operational and financial strain, ultimately limiting a chef's culinary creativity.
Major reasons for rejecting the honor include:
  • Creative Constraints: The need for flawless consistency across anonymous inspections forces chefs to serve the exact same menu for years, which restricts their freedom to experiment and change dishes. 
  • Extreme Work Stress: The intense, relentless pressure to maintain a star or risk the public humiliation of losing it frequently takes a heavy toll on a chef's mental health and work-life balance. 
  • Financial and Operational Burdens: Achieving multiple stars requires premium ingredients, larger staffs, and rigorous service models, which can drive up costs without improving profit margins. Many star-rated restaurants struggle with sustainability. 
  • Desire for Informality: Some chefs simply prefer to open casual, approachable bistros that offer excellent food without the stiff, white-tablecloth service. 
Note: Technically, chefs cannot hand their stars back to the Michelin Guide because the stars are awarded to the restaurant itself, not to the chef. To get out of the spotlight, chefs usually close their fine-dining establishments, strip away the formal service, or rebrand the restaurant entirely.

To dive deeper into the economics and culinary philosophies behind this trend, you can read more on Mashed or check out local reporting from the San Francisco Standard regarding the pressure placed on high-end kitchens.
My Reel of the Day: Sea Food Galore
Lastly, Do you know Why cutting noodles is forbidden?
In many Asian cultures, including Filipino culture, cutting noodles, particularly long noodles like pansit, is believed to bring bad luck or shorten one's life. The long strands of noodles symbolize longevity and good fortune. Cutting them is thought to cut off the long life or good fortune they're meant to represent. This tradition is rooted in the cultural significance of noodles in Filipino and Chinese cuisines, where they're often served during special occasions like birthdays and celebrations

Monday, July 27, 2026

Larry Itliong- The Manongs of Central California- Carabao Restaurant in Napa


Before Cesar Chavez, there was a Filipino with a cigar and a plan. 🍇✊
On September 8, 1965, Larry Itliong led about 1,500 Filipino grape workers, the aging bachelors known as the manong generation, to lay down their tools in Delano, California. They demanded fair wages and dignity. A week later Itliong made a bold move: he asked the Mexican workers, led by Cesar Chavez, to join them rather than cross the line. Together they built what became the United Farm Workers. Did you know that the strike so many people credit to one man was actually sparked by a Filipino?
Itliong had come to America as a teenager, lost three fingers in a cannery, and spent decades in the fields. He could not become a citizen for years because of the laws of his time, yet he helped rewrite the rules of American labor for everyone who came after.
His name was nearly erased from the history books. Today, California schools finally teach his story. Have you ever heard this story before?
Today,


Johnny Itliong has made it his life’s work to proclaim what he sees as the truth: Cesar Chavez stole credit from his father, the Filipino American farmworker activist Larry Itliong. While Chavez’s name was put on streets and buildings, the Itliong name remained largely unknown. For years, Johnny has been trying to correct the record.

Meanwhile, Here's a Short Video of Filipino Food featuring The restaurant,Carabao in Napa, California
AI Overview:
Carabao is Napa Valley's first modern Filipino restaurant, blending traditional flavors with fine-dining techniques. Founded by Chef Jade Cunningham, an alumnus of the world-renowned Michelin-starred restaurant The French Laundry, this vibrant culinary destination reimagines comforting classics with Wine Country flair.
Image of Carabao
Image of CarabaoImage of Carabao
Culinary Concept & Menu Highlights
Chef Jade uses precise French culinary techniques to elevate the robust flavors she grew up with in the Philippines. The intimate dining space features a tropical-inspired design decorated with traditional salakot farmer hats. 
  • Crispy Kare-Kare: Slow-braised oxtail transformed into an inventive, crispy croquette served over a rich peanut-coconut sauce.
  • Sisig Tacos: A fan-favorite appetizer featuring savory, crispy pork sisig inside a flour tortilla, topped with a delicate, sunny-side-up quail egg.
  • Adobo Deviled Eggs: Hard-boiled eggs marinated in a classic soy-vinegar adobo mixture, finished with a smooth egg mousse and crispy garlic.
  • Ube Crème Brûlée: A colorful dessert pairing the smooth, creamy texture of a French custard with the earthy sweetness of purple yam.
Location & Operating Hours
  • Address: 145 Gasser Drive, Suite C, Napa, CA 94559
  • Dinner: Tuesday through Saturday, 5:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.
  • Lunch: Saturday only, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
  • Closed: Sunday and Monday 
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